Claire McCardell
Si Claire McCardell (Mayo 24, 1905 – Marso 22, 1958) sarong Amerikanang fashion designer nin mga ready-to-wear na bado kan ika-20 na siglo. Siya an nagdesinyo nin mga American sportswear.[1]
Buhay
baguhonSi McCardell an matua sa apat na aki ni Eleanor asin Adrian McCardell saFrederick, Maryland. Si Adrian sarong state senator asin presidente kan Frederick County National Bank sa Maryland.[2] Kan siya aki pa, nagkaigwa siya nin alyas na "Kick" sa saiyang abilidad na dae tuludon kan mga lalaki.[3]
May hilig na sa moda kan siya aki pa, gustong magduman sa siyudad nin New York si McCardell tanganing mag-adal nin moda sa edad na 16. Kan siya habong pahalion kan saiyang ama, kinumbinse siya na makua nin home economics program sa Hood College. Makalihis an duwang taon na pagklase sa Maryland, si McCardell naglipat sa New York asin nag-adal sa Parsons (midbid sa ngunyan bilang New York School of Fine and Applied Art). Kan1927, si McCardell nagduman sa Paris, padagos an saiyang pag-adal sa eskwelahan na Parsons sa Place des Vosges.[2]Sa Paris, si McCardell asin saiyang mga kaklase nakabakal nin mga sample na bado arog kan desinyo ni Madeleine Vionnet na saindang inadalan[4][5]
Nakatapos si McCardell sa Parsons na igwang sertipiko sa pagdesinyo nin costume kan 1923.[6] Matapos an saiyang paggradwar, nagtrabaho siya sa pag sketch sa mga tindahan nin bado,[2] pagpinta nin mga burak sa mga papel na ilawan, asin naging modelo ni B. Altman. Dangan nabisto niya an tagadesinyo na si Robert Turk.[3]
Kan 1943, kinasal si McCardell sa arkitektong taga-Texas na si Irving Drought Harris, na igwang duwang aki sa enot na agom,[4][6] asin may harong sa Manhattan.
An saiyang buhay asin trabaho kan siya nagkaigwa nin kanser sa colon kan 1957. Sa tabang kan saiyang amiga asin kaklase na si Mildred Orrick, natapos ni McCardell an saiyang koleksyon na nakaratay sa ospital. Nagluwas siya sa ospital para makataram sa saiyang huring runway show. Nagadan si McCardell kan Marso 22, 1958 sa edad na 52.[2]
Kan siya magadan, nagdesisyon an saiyang pamilya na ipasara an saiyang label. Sinabi kan saiyang tugang na lalaki na "It wasn't that difficult [to close the label]. Claire's ideas were always her own."[3]
Impluwensiya
baguhonKan 1981, niluwas ni Lord & Taylor an "Popover Dress" bilang paggirumdom kan tindahan ni McCardell sa Fifth Avenue sa Manhattan.[8] An mga bersyon kan "Popover Dress ginibo sa Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design, asin Museum at F.I.T.[9][10][11] An mga bersyon man kan "Monastic Dress" ginibo sa Metropolitan Museum of Art asin LACMA.[12][13][14]
Kan 1990,an Life nginaranan si McCardell bilang saro sa sanggatos na importanteng Amerikana kan ika-20 na siglo.[6] Makalihis an taon, siya ginawadan nin Maryland Women's Hall of Fame.[2]
Kan 1998, kwarwentang taon kan saiyang pagkagadan, tolong suway na paggirumdom kan saiyang mga gibo an nilunsad sa Metropolitan Museum of Art, F.I.T., asin Maryland Historical Society sa Baltimore.[15]
An mga tagadesinyo na sina Isaac Mizrahi, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Norma Kamali, asin Cynthia Rowley may impluwensiya ni McCardell.[15]An koleksyon ni Anna Sui nin spring-summer 1999 inspirasyon kan saiyang gibo.[15] Sinabi ni Anna Sui, "What I truly appreciate was her fabric sensibility, even with more constructed fabrics like denim. She made them all look so soft and drapy. The halters she did were so modern. The thing is, you look at some of the things she did, and you can't believe it was the 40s.''[15]
Mga toltolan
baguhon- ↑ Gunn, Tim; Calhoun, Ada (2013-09-03). Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet (in English). Simon and Schuster. ISBN 9781451643862.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 "Claire McCardell, MSA SC 3520-13581". msa.maryland.gov. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 "Thoroughly modern McCardell Designer: Frederick native Claire McCardell started a fashion revolution in the 1930s. Now, her legacy is being celebrated in a book, a gallery and a retrospective show". Archived from the original on 2016-09-11. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 "Claire McCardell and the American look". Archived from the original on 2016-09-09. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ F, José Blanco; Hunt-Hurst, Patricia Kay; Lee, Heather Vaughan; Doering, Mary (2015-11-23). Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe (in English). ABC-CLIO. ISBN 9781610693103.
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (2009-10-01). The Great Fashion Designers (in English). Berg. ISBN 9780857851741.
- ↑ Tortora, Phyllis G.; Eubank, Keith (2009-06-15). Survey of Historic Costume Study Guide (in English). Bloomsbury Publishing USA. ISBN 9781609012212.
- ↑ LLC, New York Media (1981-03-02). New York Magazine (in English). New York Media, LLC.
- ↑ ""Pop-over" | C.I.45.71.2ab | Work of Art | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The Metropolitan Museum of Art". The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ ""Popover" Dress – Objects - RISD MUSEUM". risdmuseum.org. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ "The Museum at FIT - Online Collections". fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu. Archived from the original on 2016-08-11. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ "Claire McCardell | "Monastic Dress" | American | The Met". The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ "Claire McCardell | Dress | American | The Met". The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ "Woman's Dress, 'Monastic' | LACMA Collections". collections.lacma.org. Retrieved 2016-07-06.
- ↑ 15.0 15.1 15.2 15.3 White, Constance C. R. (1998-11-17). "Celebrating Claire McCardell". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. https://www.nytimes.com/1998/11/17/style/celebrating-claire-mccardell.html.
Mga panluwas na takod
baguhon- McCardell's page at the New School's website
- 1955 Time magazine article on McCardell's life and work Archived 2013-01-23 at the Wayback Machine.
- 1998 New York Times article on McCardell's life, work, and contemporary influence
- McCardell's biography from the Maryland Women's Hall of Fame Archived 2021-04-11 at the Wayback Machine.
- McCardell's biography from Fashion Encyclopedia
- Original McCardell design sketches, from The New School's archives
- Extant examples of McCardell's work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
- American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s–1970s, an exhibition catalog from The Metropolitan Museum of Art Libraries (fully available online as PDF), which contains material on Claire McCardell (see index)
Plantilya:Maryland Women's Hall of Fame Plantilya:American sportswear